Friday, August 24, 2012

Tricks of the Trade

Paercut Patterns have re-launched their website and there are some neat "tricks of the trade" for those of you starting out.
There are pictures and step by step instructions on how to stitch a button, sew a french seam, stitching and making bias binding, hand sew a universal blind hem, sew on a bias facing, an invisable zipper and fly front zipper. Check them all out here
 
Have a great weekend!
H & F

Friday, August 17, 2012

How to Choose Fabric

We found these great tips on how to choose the right fabric for your sewing projects.
Written by Geneva from a pair and a spare-diy fashion blog.

1. Check Drape: Always unroll the fabric a few metres and see how it hangs. The hang or 'drape' of the fabric will be a key element in terms of how the garment looks on. Notice how silk hangs softly, while linens are more heavy with a tendency to stick out when pleated or gathered? The drape of the fabric is the most important factor in what your project will end up looking like. When in doubt, think of items of clothing you own or have seen in stores - when you see circle skirts, what fabric are they most commonly made in? What about mini shorts? This will help you decide what fabric to buy.
2. Assess Colour: Colours and patterns are key to the look of a project. If buying in a shop my advice is to always take the fabric into natural light prior to purchasing. Often the lighting in a store can make a colour look different to how it looks in natural light.  Also, make sure to hold up the fabric to your skin to check how it looks against you if you are making something for yourself.
3. Determine Width: Fabrics usually come in two or three different widths - 150cm or 110cm being most common, and the width of your fabric will determine how much you will need to buy.
4. Test Stretch: Pull the fabric between your fingers to test the stretch. Most fabrics will have an element of stretch, particularly when pulled on the cross (diagonal against the grain), and this will be useful to understand. Think twice before purchasing lycra or jersey fabric unless you know how to sew stretch - this can be a little more challenging.
5. Visualise Project: Finally, always take the time to visualise what the project will look like in a given fabric. Think about the colour and drape - will the dress you want to make look good in a light silk fabric, or would it be better in a heavy linen? Think about your own shape too - heavier fabrics tend to be more forgiving on the figure than light silks - particularly in the case of simple sewing projects with limited structure.
Other tips? If you are just starting out, go for natural fabrics like cotton and linen that won't be too slippery and will handle well. Also, when you get your fabric home, it is often a good idea to wash your fabric to make sure it doesn't shrink drastically - which often happens to wool and other such fabrics. Overbuy fabric if you think it may shrink so that you have enough fabric to work with. And don't be afraid to buy non-traditional fabrics for your projects - rugs, table runners and sofa fabrics can work if you use them in the right projects.
 H & F.

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Christchurch Visit

MisterR based in Christchurch. Winter 2012 Collection "Not so Grimm"

Trevor went down to Christchurch last week to visit  our customers there.  He wanted to express some of his thoughts…..
  “ It is quite amazing to see the difference from my last visit.  Many more buildings are gone. Empty and flat building sites punctuate the remaining buildings. I counted 8 cranes at least, but these unfortunately are being used in the demolition phase not the rebuilding.  For some reason I can never get my bearings in Christchurch. I took the ‘Tom tom’ this time but they have not programmed in the Red Zone yet!  A few dead ends, but these bought you close to the central area which highlights  the extent of the damage.  One view of High Street shows buildings literally cut in half.  The traffic around town flows easily but once onto  Riccarton or Blenheim Roads, it is stop start.  The resilience of the people there is amazing. Everyone I spoke to had a story to tell of damage. The impact for many  has been enormous and I realised that the rest of New Zealand have lost touch with  what the people of Christchurch are having  to endure.  They certainly have my admiration”.

H & F.

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Colour Crush

The Cosy colour of grey seems to be a great seller for us at the moment-particualry in the winter wools and matching linings.
We have put together some inspirational images of our current colour crush.

On a side note, NZFW 2012 is almost here and we are throughly excited!!!
H & F.

Monday, August 13, 2012

Julian Danger

Young designer Amy-Rose started the label Julian Danger named after her twin brother Julian. Danger? Maybe because starting a clothing brand in the middle of a recession was a risky, dangerous idea.   This is her new summer collection "Violet" is about bedtime romance with a hint of grunge disobedience, yet at the same time it is innocent and unspoiled. The collection has sweet-as-satin dresses, confident shoulders, cuts and colour-blocking suits. The colour palette was from rosewood and lavender to blood red burgundy and beige.
The first lilac dress and the scolloped silk shorts are favourites here at Hawes & Freer.  It is g
reat to see young designers doing so well.
H & F

Check out the shop and facebook page.

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Things we love today

We hope the middle of the week has greeted you well. Trevor is down in Christchurch at the moment visitng all our wonderful clients, while the rest of us are busy beavers in Auckland.
It is rather cold in the office today so we are having soup and toast!
H & F.

*All images for this mood board are from our pinterest page

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

"You have to work smarter not harder!"

Last week I went and had a catch up with Celine Chapman, designer of Celine Rita. She showed me through her new summer range, which is hitting stores at the end of September. I asked her a few questions whilst enjoying a tea and melting moment with her and Flo (her gorgeous puppy).

 You have been in business for three years now Celine, Do you still consider yourself a young/new designer? 
I started Celine Rita in 2009, but I definitely still consider myself a new designer. I am still growing and developing my skills, and still learning so much. There is only a little niche that knows about Celine Rita, there's a lot more CR love to be spread around!

 Why do you think you have been so successful? 
Hopefully my designs and beautiful garments have had a wee bit to do with the CR success thus far! I have a really amazing group of of loyal customers who I am so proud to dress each season. A lot of focus is placed on customer service and looking after each of our CR girls really well. We have Wine O'Clock the last Friday of every month in our boutique as well as numerous in-store events throughout the year for all of our customers to come along to.  We also have Social media to thank for a lot of our growth and success. As well as the traditional word of mouth referrals thanks to an amazingly support crew of Family and Friends, Facebook (and twitter, instagram, pinterest) have been great for us to interact directly with our market all around the world! Pretty cool really! 

 What inspires you?
I get inspiration from everywhere- books, travel, history, music, movies, people, pop-culture throughout time... The list could go on and on! It's really important for me to have a real passion behind the inspiration to each of my ranges. It gets me excited and helps me to design more interesting pieces.  SS1213 is called Jaqueline, inspired by Jackie Kennedy during JKF's presidency. She was such an incredible woman And had her very own look. I'm currently designing next winter, which is inspired by travel I did at the beginning of the year to Europe- the buildings, history, people... Just blew me away, especially in Italy and France. So much inspiration! 

What matters to you most as a fashion designer?
Creating beautiful, commercially successful garments that my customers fall in love with time and time again. I love seeing my dream grow

Do you have time for yourself?
It's important for me to make time for myself as I have found I work better. Sometimes it's really hard, especially with deadlines lingering at certain times of the year. But even at these busy times,  its better to get out of the workroom- even if it's just dinner with the girls, escaping to my parents in Karaka, or taking Flo to the park. Balance is key!

 Why did you choose not to show at NZ Fashion Week this year?
Last year's fashion week was really successful-I got some buyers from Hong Kong who love Celine Rita, as well as some great publicity.  However, it is very hectic and very full on! Especially as it's just me working on most things, it means everything else in the business has to go on hold for a while while everything is organized for Fashion Week- there is so much more involved than just designing and making a collection! So I decided to focus on growing my label this year. But look forward to returning with more experience and knowledge to own the catwalk next time!

 Retail is struggling at the moment, does this scare you or make you more motivated?
More motivated. I started Celine Rita during a recession, so I would have a different view of retail compared to others who shave been around for years, when the economy was booming.   I have come in around this new generation where online shopping and social media are a part of our everyday lives. With technology changing and evolving all the time, it's crucial to my business to stay up to play and move with the times too. It's all about working smarter not harder!

 What do you see long term for Celine Rita?
A cute wee retail store in Auckland where more girls can learn about and fall in love with CR garments.  An international presence. I love the thought of stylish ladies around the world rocking Celine Rita in their own unique ways- Hong Kong, Tokyo, Sydney, Paris, New York, Milan....

And finally, what advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?
Get work experience in different workroom's- different levels, sizes, types etc. That is the best way to learn more and find out what you are most interested in. While at uni I did work experience for Juliette Hogan and Stitch Ministry. It really helped to clarify for me what I wanted to do in the industry.  You also have to LOVE it. Fashion is not the easiest career path so you have to completely love what you are doing in order to be motivated. It is really 80% business, which you need to be aware of.
 
Thanks so much Celine, all the best with your new range-I certainly will be coming in to buy a piece.
Amber from H & F.

www.celinerita.com

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Dmonic Intent Visit

Photos taken by Jocelen Janon

On Monday I went out to visit the designers behind Dmonic Intent. They consist of sisters Maxine Wooldrige, Samara Wooldridge and Kris Leitch and her partner Joe Walker. They also mentioned their mum who is a massive supporter.  The family home in Glen Innes is completely taken over by art, design inspiration and spaces for all of them to work on the label. Having numbers allows them to work on various projects, such as garments, handmade silver and copper jewellery; which has always been a huge part of the brand, and recently hats. “ Our next step would be shoes!” says Samara, “Yea, we have experienced accessorising plain boots and stuff, but making it from scratch, like creating our own heels and things would be awesome …..One day!.” Says Max


What does Dmonic Intent mean? Dmonic Intent just means no boundaries, we are not limited by trends or what people want, we design to our aesthetics and what we like, we are trans-seasonal, we also like to draw inspiration from the dark side a bit!”
So first New Zealand Fashion Week this year, what does it mean for you? Well, we were really lucky because we had 3 ranges. Two of them we merged for the Mirimoda competition in Wellington, which we won! So we get to show it at Fashion week (for those of you who don’t know it is a competition for only Maori designers) and then we put our commercial range in another section. This didn’t place but straight after the show we received an email from PieterStewart who was one of the judges saying she would love us to show that range at Fashion Week also in the New Generation section. So it is really cool because we get to show our commercial stuff that people can buy (it is our first wholesale range) and our more playful side with garments that we wouldn’t necessarily make for production because they are expensive and impractical, one of our pieces covered in jewellery adornments weighs like 10kgs! But they show our creativity and show off the jewellery really well! Fashion Shows are really fun, it is annoying that we can’t wear half the clothes we make, like this pair of pants that we made they are literally up to my shoulders, and they were short on our model that had litre heels on!
What do see long term for Dmonic Intent? A shop! That way we can have a store that encapsulates our brand and what we are all about, and international recognition. We are actually working on a top secret venture at the moment that involves us and some other Māori designers going international!
On the side note, designers and retail stores are struggling at the moment, does this scare you? Or just make you more motivated? After being in business for four years are now working full time on the label. We decided if we are going to do it, we are going to be fully committed and put everything in to it. We have been working really hard and putting in all our time and effort. We are making a living and we haven’t even begun so it can’t really get worse, only bigger and better!
Being Māori does that make you feel more responsible to keep your fashion made in NZ and authentic? We will defiantly always maintain NZ made. We have been subconsciously inspired by Maori inspiration but sort of unaware of it; we didn’t ever do it purposely. We read reviews of our work after shows and they will say that our garments remind them of Māori patterning or the colours of the Māori flag, and we are like 'oh yea it does!' I guess it works well, we are not defined by it, but it is engraved in us. In our new collection, the yellow and black print is a Maori pattern but you wouldn’t necessarily know unless you are Māori which is nice.
Thanks so much for having me in your home and chatting to me, all the best for fashion week!!
Amber from H &F.

 
Photos taken by Amber Whitecliffe.

Visit Dmonic Intent's facebook page, and follow them on Instagram and twitter, they are quite entertaining!